Lordship Lane - The Best Highstreet in London? No.3

Lordship Lane has changed so much in the last decade and will hopefully continue to flourish in the same way. A few chains (although none would be best) and dozens of independents is the smart way to grow. The high-street is becoming what Clapham's Nappy Valley failed to achieve. Affordable luxury with a family heart.

Roullier White is quite simply a home-wares shop for men (and women too if you insist) a type of shop that's not only very hard to find but rarely worth visiting. Roullier is different - every inch is merchandised with care and wit, every inch another joy to buy. Worldwide Monocle magazine recently wrote the their ant spray the best on earth!

It may be an old school Italian deli with macho staff and dusty shelves but these same shelves hold treasures to dine for, East Dulwich Deli also bakes locally simply the best sourdough breads in London.

SMBS Organic Grocers is the type of grocers one grows to rely on. If you can't find it here you probably don't need it. Also they are only two doors down from one of London's finest affineurs - The Cheese Block.

Whilst both the Palmerston Pub and the modern chip shop The Sea Cow are owed by a local foodie entrepreneur (well he is since he moved down south) and do what they do well.

Also not to be missed are the coffees at The Blue Mountain Cafe, take aways are best though, as the walk back down through the farmers market to the lane, is a joy with caffeine in hand. Taking you to perhaps my favourite haunt of all Green and Blue, these guys have the right ideas in life. A great Off Licence with an abundance of tempting wines with the brucie bonus of a bistro next door, the perfect palce to sit down for a little light loveliness and where bottles are sold at retail prices. A perfect place to sip wines you normally couldn't afford to order. Good enough to treat.

Lordship lane is a high street best epitomised by local resident and DJ Rob Da Bank. Rob used to a legendary hedonist but now enjoys family feasts at home and organising music festivals for interested adults. The true spirit of East Dulwich.

Grown Up Fun.

Dalston - The Best Highstreet in London? No.2

Dalston seems to be turning into some sort of uber urban green nirvana and no I'm not overstating the case.

Firstly we had Marnie Rose and her inspiring Kings Walk Garden where as part of the Garden Classroom boys and girls gather to learn under the branches . Next came the Dalston Mill for just one summer, quickly replaced by the Easter Curve Garden. High above which we find The Dalston Roof Park Bar where ethically engaged members drink into the sunset and reminisce about dancing till the sun came up at rave haven The Labyrinth. Dalston also has the proposed covering of Mildmay Grove with a garden to look forward too (the perfect way to blot out noise from new high speed trains) And now we have a little green retail to add to the mix. Opening very soon at 20 Dalston is The Farm Shop with chickens on the roof, indoor allotments and aquaponic fish farming. Oh and a cafe.

The September opening can't come soon enough.

With renowned theatre Arcola up the road, pound shops a plenty, the original and, cliche coming up, still the best Mangal Ocakbasi nearby, Ridley Road Market for untold tat and amazing haberdashery, plus the always fantastic Dalston Jazz Bar a stoned walk away, Dalston may be the perfect highstreet for the young at heart.

Obviously a fixed gear bike and an odd haircut may help.

The Eastern Curve Pop up Garden - Dalston Junction

Ignore the sirens and bustle of Dalston and head straight for a picnic in this charmed urban park. The cafe is yet to be built, the benches are often full of primary kids on learning experiences and the sun rarely shines but hey today was a good day. I found serenity.
Open to the public from 11am – 8pm and right opposite the rather dull yet spanking new Dalston Junction Station from where I'd recommend a trip on a fancy new train to see the dinosaur's in Crystal Palace.

Kennedy's Fish & Chips - The Goswell Road

Kennedy's has nothing to do with the eponymous south london pie makers that went out of business a few years back so don't go here in search of one of the famously good Scotch pies, do however stop by for one of the best fish and chips around. I used to think there was a black cab rank outside, no not true, it's just that cabbies from all over London congregate here nightly for a perfect fish supper. I always have the same thing and it never disappoints... "plaice and chips twice please and a loy for the walk home".



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Jean Nouvel Pavilion - Serpentine Gallery

The Jean Nouvel Pavilion at the Serpentine Gallery this Summer has finally got it right.

It's not in the same league architecturally as the whimsical Olaofur Eliasson & Kjeti Thorsen  of 2007 nor the Oscar Niemeyer study in beauty (2003) the Toyo Ito masterpiece (2002) or last years enchanting SANAA. However it has at last realised the potential of a public space for a summer in London.

For years the public have been seemingly ignored by the starchitects need for flamboyance. Eliasson & Thorson for example gave us a stunning place to visit, one of my favourite ever interiors and nowhere to sit and cosy up.

Nouvel has given us what we wanted all along, a great place to ponder, meet friends, laugh flirt or read. The cafe actually has a rather large buzz about it, amazing considering the coffee is awful. I sat and watched as people played chess, rocked on hammocks and struggled with the not so simple game of ping pong. Maybe we just needed a Frenchmen to show London what parks are for.

Anna Lappe - Food Hero

Today I've spent far too long procrastinating and flicking from blog to blog.
My favourite without doubt and one I return to more often than not is the inspiring Take a Bite
Written by Anna Lappe, author, activist and inspiration.
You don't need to read the book to understand the that this is a woman to follow.
My favourite quote:

"Every time you spend money you're casting a vote for the kind of world you want"

MacFarlane's - Abbevillle Road Clapham

A truly charming deli that offers everything a denizen could need. Perfect for the yummy mummies and day dreaming day off dads of Abbeville Road, a hidden gem of a high-street just far enough away from far too youthful Clapham. I especially loved the homemade Gruyere and Marmite biscuits on the counter. Irresistible and a statement to consumers that this is not a chain store. This is a place for individuals. Even if they do all wear rugby shirts, distressed Gap shorts and oddly office like shoes.

2 & 4 - De Beuvoir

This little delight is just what I've been looking for. A cold war modern furniture shop (fairly well priced too - I was tempted more than once but its tricky to carry an angular sofa and walk a dog at the same time) with a rather special little cafe on the side; cakes treats and quite good coffee made even better by charming service and a thoughtful bowl of water for the milly pup.



Just off the regents canal 2&4 makes a perfect pit stop when the towpath cafe is too busy for solitude.



Maybe bring your friendly man with a van along too!



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Trinity Stores - Balham

For such a long standing part of London's food establishment I'm ashamed to say today was my first visit to Trinity Stores in Balham. I needn't worry, Wednesday afternoon and the place was alive with happy customers, floral clad kids and passers by. A wonderfully original selection of dry, fresh, chilled and alcoholic goodies. I bought teas and tisanes, biscuits and pies. None of which I needed and all of which were irresistible. The true heart of Balham.

The Old Post Office Bakery - Clapham

At last we can call off the hounds, to my ambassadors routing  the suburbs you can go home now, the search is over.

We have succeeded. Today the crown has passed over.

Ginger Pig you longer hold the title of 'best sausage roll in the world'. The title is moving on.

It's a long way to go but if man can conquer mountains I can brave the South Circular.

The humble sausage roll is a thing of beauty, easy to make but next to impossible to perfect. Yet down on Land or Road in Clapham it has been done.

Welcome to the throne ..... The Old Post Office Bakery



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Franks - Peckham Multi Storey Carpark

Not knowing that Franks was above us it came as such a refreshing surprise. An urban beach-like bar but without the sand and Europop. Perfect. 

After climbing the ramps of the Peckham Multi Storey Car Park, with ever increasingly impressive works of sculpture building to a crescendo on on the rooftop, a Campari and some nibbles felt like a dream come true.

Of all the Galleries in London this space is not only the most intriguing (can a Car Park in Peckham really live up to expectations?) and the most inspiring (proof that Cities are more interesting in economic down-times) but also the most rewarding (this art coupled with that view creates uplifted souls)

We treated ourselves to a light brunch of Heritage Tomatoes on Toast, a classic south London greasy spoon dish, made delicious by ingredients alone, a few glasses of sunshine filled Rose and a Campari. We giggled like young lovers with our find and the Milly Pup ran from ankle to ankle dining on under table scraps of loveliness. She ran free after the large arty crowd of both rich and fashionably poor heckled me to 'let the puppy run free man!'

The best afternoon I've had in many many Sundays.

Already a treasured memory and already booked for next Saturday night. Lets pray for lots of sunshine followed by an epic thunder and lightening storm. Franks is the perfect place to watch the weather and smugly enjoy the fact that South London has all the best views.

Website: http://www.hannahbarry.com/ and http://www.frankscafe.org.uk/



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The Black Lab - Clapham

It's not open yet and it's a famously difficult street to retail from but good luck to the guys at 'The Black Lab' in Clapham. I popped down to taste the mana this afternoon and it was closed for staff training. A good sign in itself!

Next time for sure.

Ellen Dunham-Jones - Retrofitting suburbia

Ellen Dunham-Jones: Retrofitting suburbia Video on TED.com

Watch this Video.

The big idea? Retrofitting empty suburban big boxes for the benefit of you and me. Would not an empty IKEA make the greatest farmers market? Could we not turn the hundreds of vacant woolworths into libraries? Should we not retro-fit deserted estates into huge playgrounds? Can't fault the idea really.

Also see the Detroit Urban Farming Movement!

Gelupo - Soho

Following on from romance at Polpo and memories of many a weekend spent splashing around in Venice, nothing could be finer or more fitting than a short stroll over to artisan ice cream maker Gelupo.

A Blood Orange Granita with Chocolate Sorbet piled on top. Almost Heaven! - although the Rice Ice came pretty close too, as did the many, and avaialble to all, free samples.

Oddly the owners also feel the need to add a small grocery and kitchenwares section to the back of the almost finished Gelato. Whilst I often find these attempts at retail misplaced I can't deny that a freezer full of suasages handmade for the diners of Bocca de Lupo got me very excited.

So go eat an ice cream, enjoy it, and then take a sausage or two  for a cut price Bocca experience at home.

Polpo - Soho

Birthdays in London can be wonderful nights especially if surprises booked by others. This year my delicious wife didn't book anything, Polpo don't take bookings. Just rock up, drink while you queue and prepare yourself for something quite magical - a bacaro in the middle of town and in a building previously occupied by Venetain God Canaletto (and what a blessing finding this must have been for the estate agent sourced to find a perfect location!) This is now my favourite restaurant in London. Not only is the food prepared perfectly and priced simply but aussie Kevin is an incredibly loving waiter. Although he is far prettier in real life than my hasty photo!

You'll notice I blog more about experience and service than food itself but isn't that the point of eating? Great food and bad service is a route to a bad night out, yet average food and great service can create a customer for life and unforgettable evenings. Is that not after all the secret what we hanker after? Memories.
Polpo has hit the holy grail however; great food and great service.

I'll never forget. Happy birthday to me!

Wilton Way Cafe - De Beauvoir Town (aka London Fields!)

When community fails and highstreets die London becomes a fractured place; still the greatest but a little harder to live in. With this in mind I suggest everybody in London visits Wilton Way Cafe today; if you can't visit just send a cheque - because what they are doing is to be applauded. 

Not only is the Wilton way cafe a cafe with intimacy at it's core and great coffee it's mandate it's also got a community radio station built into the servery. Yes the 'Wiltons' believe so much in re-invigorating the local community they've set up a station to get the community talking, listening, communicating. Such a wonderful thing. I'm once again in love.

With the already lovely Violet Cupcakes and the perfectly formed Wilton Way Cafe  this could be a street to watch. What comes next? A grocery store, a haberdashers or a butcher might be nice. Go spend some money. Invest in London's collective future. Or just chill out a little in a truely lovely cafe. Either way you'll leave feeling better.

The Anthropologist - The City

What may seem a good idea on an architects mood board can be let down in reality by lack of staff. The restaurant and bar had a great vibe about them yet the attached grocery store was utterly devoid of staff and silent. Fairly nice selection of lines that should be warmly received by the local suits if the bosses give the grocery the rotas it merits.



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Villandry - Fitzrovia

Villandry seems to having an identity crisis.

As Villandry continues it's expansion plans they should perhaps have a little break and think about how things are going. At the moment it seems they need to concentrate again on what they once did so so well - being a great food shop. The restaurant was as good today as it's even been but I walked through the shop without stopping and a little confused as to where I was!

Its always tempting to up the offer of gift items, they take up lots of space, generate great GP and never go out of date, but if I want a book or a cuddly toy, a candle or a cheap barbecue I'll go elsewhere. At the moment a visit to Villandry is like a visit to a suburban market gardeners, stuff everywhere and nothing to buy. If i want gifts I'll go to Liberty's, if I want food I'll go to La Fromagerie.

Maybe next time Villandry, maybe ...

Bompas & Parr - The Complete History of Food

I don't often get involved in the left field of the food world. I love simple food cooked simply and bought locally. But the 'The Complete History of Food' evening hosted by the spectacular Bompas and Parr looks quite incredible and relatively cheap too.


It's set to be a journey on foot through the history of revolutionary food. Taste a little Victorian anarchy then some sixties revolution and maybe a soupcon of Tudor blood lustre. Sounds very intriguing. And only £25 per head. Considering they worked with Heston on his 'Feasts..' series and gained so much press for there Jelly Sculptures it should be worth going.  


If this sounds a bit too much then why not try a little of the Bompass and Par 'Occult Jam' first. Its a free event at the Barbican (Jams later available in the shop too) Flavours range  from 'Absinthe and pineapple with sand from the Great Pyramids' to 'Plum and Oak with wood from Nelson's ship The Victory'.  Royalists should maybe avoid the 'Milk Jam infused with a speck of Princess Diana's hair' flavour at all costs though!

Sea Shell - Lisson Grove

It's a long time since I've had fish & chips for lunch but food this good can't be missed out on. It's reputation as the number one chip shop in london precedes it and the queue out the door of thirty people, on a hot summers day too, suggests excellence. Yet being a hit with tourists normally suggests a place past it's best. Sea Shell is not. Sea Shell is at the top of it's game, with batter so crisp and light I now understand the throng of excited Japanese tourists - they're not on a crappy guided tour but a pilgrimage.

Mary, Queen of Shops - BBC2

A while ago I was asked to help out on the next series of Mary, Queen of Shops. In this new series Mary was to visit independent food shops and help them recover, rebuild, reboot. The episode I worked on, in a consulting role to help with sourcing and merchandising, is on tomorrow night - June 7th, BBC2, 9pm.

And my good God it's great TV.

In all the years of Ramsey's Kitchen Nightmares and other extreme makeover shows I've never seen a finale as good as this. You think I'm exaggerating? ........Trust me I'm a shopkeeper.

Mrs Paisleys Lashings - Richmond

For a home to be both magical and infamous took some doing, but with one half of the feted marriage a Rolling Stone and the other the ethereal and still delicious Miss Jo Wood, Holmwood house is both and more. For this home to have a garden restaurant in it's midst for a few weeks with Arthur Potts Dawson in the kitchen to boot is quite simply exciting.

Every part of an evenings dining at Mrs Paisley's Lashings is joyful. From the 'Lads of Richmond' cocktail (served in suitably eco / retro jam jars) offered on arrival into the conservatory, the stunning sourced with love meal (the lobster risotto the highlight) all the way through to dancing with truly global movie stars in the subterranean in-house disco!

The highlight amongst many many highlights however was Mr John Davey. Simply one of the worlds best maitre d's. A man with such grace and genuine hospitality he'd give Elena a run for her money. He made every guest feel like an invitee at a house party; and in a room of no more than fifty diners, most of whom were nervous of camera phones, this was remarkable and appreciated.

If you manage to get a table at this so much more than just a pop-up pop-up get there on time ... a moment missed would be a moment regretted.

The Honey Bank - Festival Gardens

On a recent day trip to Paris I bought a pot of Honey from a bookshop at the always worth a visit Parc de Villettes; mainly to support the growing French 'Concrete Honey' movement and secondly to see how the French fair when compared to London's Urban Beekeepers. 


Well it stands up very well indeed and when coupled with the fact that the phrase 'Concrete Honey' is just so dam sexy I wanted to see if a could get some more closer to home. 

Amazingly the French artistic co-operative 'Parti Poetique is bringing  'The Honey bank' project to London. Mixing Art Architecture and Beekeeping to stunning effect, this could turn out to bee the most fascinating part of the City of London Festival.

On June 22 I'd suggest a day out to the bottom of the Festival Gardens for a little further investigation. Here you'll find a Honey Feast.  Maybe wear long trousers and bring a queen. 


For those of you who are already tuned in to the idea of doing your own beekeeping I'd suggest signing up for the one-day 'bee keeping taster' course held in Battersea, by Brian, founder of UrbanBees.co.uk . I went a few months back now and have been searching demonically ever since in my local nooks and crannies for a place to start. 

The Wapping Project Bookshop - Wapping

 'The Wapping Project' has always been a special place in my heart. Who could not feel inspired by a decadent three hour lunch, followed by a walk to the specially flooded rooftop to see an art installation of rowing boats! Or a best friends birthday and an exhibition of Belgian Fashion. This week a brunch to remember was followed by a show celebrating 30 years of Ally Capellino. My manbag spend may now boil over.

But what made it so memorable and urged me to write is a retail space of such enormous charm. The Wapping Project Bookshop is home to Lydia Fulton and is a true reflection of her talent for curation. The Bookshop is  seemingly one of the few places you can find a copy of the latest 'its nice that' plus a hundred other literary wonders for children, for cooks or for paper fetishists. I could have spent a fortune, and I probably will - hopefully next Thursday I'll be lucky enough to get a ticket for a reading/showing by photographer Tim Walker. Can you imagine how special it would be to hear Tim talk while sitting on the floor of a tiny greenhouse?

In the past this experimental treasure has hosted evenings with  Edna O’Brien, Iain Sinclair, Jeanette Winterson, Michael Rosen, Richard Milward, Linda Grant, Billy Childish, even film maker Mike Figgis. I also love the opening hours. Thursday (by appointment) plus friday, saturday and sunday. It's an oft cited moan of the shop keeper, how hard we work. Why not make it easier on yourself and leave the rest of the week to be creative? Why open on a monday when nobody shops anyway? Let's all follow Lydia and close a bit more often!

Whilst The Wapping Project Bookshop may all sound a bit too cool for school don't be put off. Lydia and I had a long conversation about the new East London line extension. Great Food, one-off Exhibitions, a bookshop of love and chats about the architecture of train lines. What's not to love!

The Espresso Room - Bloomsbury

As a born and bred Londoner who loves to wander, sip and shop the English owned Espresso Rooms makes me proud. Whilst many houses lay claim to the finest brewed coffee in town (and make no mistake this is one of them) few offer such great service. My visit today was an episode of complete care and attention.

Maybe it's the intimacy of the room (more of an exquisite cupboard really) or the knowledge that what they do is special; whatever it is it's working, service this good is rare and remembered.

Tapped and Packed - Fitzrovia

Wander up and down Rathbone Place looking for Tapped and Packed and confusion and maps will reign. On realising that No.26 is actually the place you're searching for you'll fall in love instantly.

In a world of overbranded and underwhelming experience not putting your name on the door is a sign of intimacy, of subtlety, of charm.

As yet another newcomer to the burgeoning third wave of coffee tapped and packed needed a point of difference - they went for sexed up equipment. Perfect for the machismo air of Adland. What man can resist coffee disguised as a chemistry experiment and what woman could resist the best looking barristas in town! Either will relish such crafted drinking. Many will become regulars.

Kevin Cyr - Camper Bike

Imagine this like a mini 'moby' from a vintage episode of Brookside; full of fine provisions and pulling up in your street unannounced. With an exquisilty curated selection of cheese and humble wine, a pot of homemade hummous or two, a dozen sunday newspapers and magazines; a four wheeled corner shop in the middle of your street, maybe with a remixed ice cream van serenade too!

At the moment it's a piece of conceptual artwork by Kevin Cyr. I think it should be retail space for the modern streetscape.
Please somebody do it!

Preferably in Islington near me.

Lambs Conduit Street - The Best Highstreet in London? No.1

If I had to imagine the perfect high street, my own nirvana, it would have to have everything I'd need for a perfect lazy weekend plus I few things I don't.

A florist, a bookshop and a newsagent adjacent to a greasy spoon for brunch time browsing. A pair of outstanding menswear shops, a tailor and somewhere great for lunch. A hairdresser or two and no estate agents. 

A wine bar, somewhere to drink with friends and one for drinking to love. An established funeral parlour, a dentist, a charity shop and a deli of note.

This imaginary utopia is alive and well. Welcome to Lambs Conduit Street. A secret London gem.

Kennards is a beauty of a deli and Bin Ends a real wine merchant.

All it needs is more food! Whilst Cigala serves up the finest tapas treats and Ciao Bella is the kind of old school Italian that every high street used to have (namely reliable, fun and fantastic for the money) what Lambs Conduit misses is a Butchers, a Cheese Room, or Greengrocers.

Maybe this will change when The People's Supermarket finally opens. It's been talked about for years now. First it was to be in Brixton then Islington's Upper Street then ... then ... then....

Now it looks like this concept of the future is to be realised.

What is a People's Supermarket? It's a supermarket where the staff work for free in return for cheap food. The cheap food being the finest organic, ethical and sustainable goods available.

With staffing costs being by far the highest cost in retail having no staff costs should ensure amazing prices for the local community - they in return just volunteer for a couple of hours on a very happy checkout.

It's an interesting Idea. Good Luck.

Until they open though - Lambs Conduit Street will remain the best High street in London for the man about town who reads Monocle Magazine and has no kitchen.

Towpath Cafe - Regents Canal

Since I first spoke of the Towpath only a few months back it's gone from being a local favourite to a national treasure - even featuring in last weekends financial times. Not bad going for somewhere reachable only on foot.

Does it deserve such aclaim? Of course. The food is always exactly what you fancy; on sunday last as the rain clouds gathered they served up a wonderous Paella. Just the most perfect treat for an almost summers day. Every weekend sees something different - something better than last. The only constant being the bigger crowds.

Should do well in the Observer food awards; go now before the winners plaque and hordes arrive.

The Camden Coffee Shop - Delancey Street Conservation Area

The Camden Coffee Shop is the kind of shop that makes me feel guilty for never having visited before. Driven past - yes. Told others to visit - yes. Walked past when drunk and thought about popping in but halfway through a cigarette so didn't - yes. Known that this is exactly the sort of business specialist that will one day disappear from our high street and we will regret - yes. Visited - Sorry No.

Today was the day and it was worth the wait. On the left of the shop is a 75 year old roasting wheel, on the right worldwide bags of green coffee beans. In the heart of this tiny wonder is George. George offers words of comic wisdom, great proprietorial service and a wealth of knowledge.  Camden Coffee may not have the panache of Monmouth or the swagger of Square Mile but I'd doubt any of the upstarts know as much as George, or are quit as hospitable to stupid questions.
My tote now smells of freshly ground Santos Light and my heart is a little purer for this real store experience.

The Camden Coffee Shop, 11 Delancey Street, NW1. Call 020 7387 4080. (not to be confused with 'The Camden Coffee House' only yards away; which looks very nice and should appeal to Phoebe, Joey, Chandler et al)

Ferreira Delicatesan & Portuguese Shop - Camden

Don't be put of by the off putting exterior - the charm of Ferreira is it's aged looks. Inside it's even more of a retro gem. The deli counter has a seventies supermarket style red and white canopy and if your lucky you'll find a bottle of Blue Nun. With newspapers, sausages rolls, fresh bread and tinned food by the yard this is an old school Sunday morning heaven.

They also sell the cheapest pastel de nata in London at 70p each. Which is rather good seeing as just about every deli in London buys them from the same bakery on the south side of the Thames.

On the subject of Pastel I would love to see someone somewhere in London give them the love they receive at home. Where are the sexy boxes and the cinnamon dust?  The Chocolate Icing? The warm just from the Oven smell?

Nonna's - Camden Parkway

Nonna's on Camden's Parkway has changed and changed for the better.

Sharing a kitchen with The superb York & Albany and as part of the Angela Hartnett Empire I was very excited to hear of it's opening and very disappointed on visiting .

It used to be a quite strange experience, with HP sauce bottles sharing shelves with £50 bottles of Olive Oil, above a pot of Jam. Maybe it was meant to be wacky or maybe an intuitive shopping experience - I just got confused.
A year or so later and it's as it I'd have hoped it should be.

Nonna's has now ditched much of the old stock and ramped up production of it's own produce, so the daft array of English Icon condiments (see Heinz and HP sauces) have gone and been replaced by a simple solution - Nonna's Homemade and Spicy Sauce. Gone are the huge raft of different oils and vinaigrette's displayed in any nock and cranny they could find to be replaced by a more curated and cared for selection.
It's a joy to be here. Not forgetting that the the bits that were always great still are - great cheese, great wine, far better than average pizza and my top recommendation - fantastic fantastic homemade ice cream.


Maybe Angela is as good a shopkeeper as chef after all. Her Nonna would be proud.

The Last Tuesday Society - Cambridge Heath

In an area of London famed for free parties and exceptional galleries (see first thursday for both - and yes I do see the witty irony in saying this) it felt odd to have to pay to visit a 'gallery of oddities' where everything was actually for sale. Don't hesitate the pound entry is worth its hundred pennies.

'The Last Tuesday Society' has a charm and dirty laugh that sets it up as it as somewhere to marvel. Two dark rooms are full to the brim of exhibits from raccoon penis bones, Lesbian S & M Safety Manuals and enough stuffed animals to quieten the loudest child it's a must see for the insane, curious and curiouser.

Easily the second best museum in Cambridge Heath.


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Lock 7 - Broadway Market

Sitting sipping coffee in a bike shop by a canal feels like an Amsterdam moment - except it's happening in London Fields. Lock 7 is the kind of small business that is obvious only to a local. Who else could spot the potential of a forgotten site on the wrong side of the bridge. A local would know it's actually part of the cycle route from Broadway Market to Columbia Road, a route that's become an East London weekend pilgrimage. Although if you ask my advice turn left before you get to Columbia Rd and head for the fun and artistic games of Vyner Street instead.

Founded by two local bike lovers following a trip to Copenhagen it's a business built on love. Love of wheels and wheely good coffee (the cafes own pun - not mine)

The guilt of being a car owner has been quickly put to bed by the esoteric service and I'm in the mood for a long stay and perhaps a little too much homemade cake. Cake that's really rather special.

I could be sometime.




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Hurwundeki - Cambridge Heath Road

My favourite Johnny Cash ditty 'Sunday morning coming down' was written for this antique shop / cafe / grocery store. Sitting opposite my fine long black and cheap eat treat is the nutty one from trainspotting, on the wall bowler hats and bad Victorian art, above me the rumble of passing trains and outside a collection of vintage fairground oddities for kids to scramble on whilst daddy gets his head together.

Whoever says Hackney is uber-urban has yet to visit - I feel like I'm in a rural crazy aunts secret parlour (although opposite there is a strip club to bring my thoughts back to the gutter where they feel at home)
Hurwundeki - The perfect start to my day. Any day.

The last and most charming point of magical little oasis - no music, so refreshing.




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