The Best Highstreet in London - Hackney Wick

It's not exactly a highstreet but it is a rather wonderful circular walk so why not include it..... Hackney Wick is full of surprises, not least that I live so close and had no idea where it was. I always thought it was just off Mare Street. It isn't - it faces the Olympic Park in Stratford and is well worth a little Brunch time ramble.

All the money being spent on the Olympics is not just going on sport but classrooms, walkways and lovely little places to potter.

So start your day at the View Tube, a social enterprise, funded by Olympic Dreamers and built out of reclaimed shipping containers. On the Ground floor is a sexy little brunch place called the Container Cafe and seeing as it's hosted by Aussies it's the perfect place for pre games gloating.  Maybe just have coffee though as the cafe is owned and run by the same people that have the Counter Cafe a little further around the corner. So memorise the menu (it's the same) and ponder your tummy as you wander on.

Next up could be a rather fine dine over the lock at Forman and Sons. A London Institution since 1905 and recently moved to a spanking new smokehouse and restaurant opposite the Stadium. With views as good as the this it's the perfect place in the world to try the London Cured Smoked Salmon.

Or possibly amble around the corner to The Counter Cafe who hold the record for the bestest damn egg and bacon sandwich in the east. Super Cool and on Fridays all the guys wear Jackets. Dress Up Fridays an idea that should be nationalised for the casual amongst us. Allowing for the fact they you've already eaten three times and it's only just lunch time perhaps the Schwartz Gallery the very essecnce of an urbane art gallery or the Elevator Gallery which is better.

 With a head full of ideas and art the canal is the next stop. Full of extra-ordinary graffiti that have long been ignored. This leads perfectly to the Hackney Pearl . And a pearl it is. Stuck in the middle of a grime ridden estate the pearl shines out. I loved a lot the home pickled Onions that added something east to the cheese plate, which incidently uses local turkish bread to compliment the monty's cheddar. The cocktails and coffees too are better than ever. 

Drink the night away here - but remember to order you cab now.

In three hours time you'll have no idea how to get home.

Hackney Wicked.

Caravan - Exmouth Market

This weekend we decided to turn our phones off completely and have a secret holiday in London - living here it's easy to let things pass you by and in the end we could neither name another city we'd rather travel too 48 hours of leisurely rambling. The highlight said holiday was a long walk in the rain to Exmouth Market, as we arrived the traders packed up for the day, yet Caravan's lights shone brightly (particularly so as very few restaurants seem to be open for an early dinner or very late lunch these days) The food was far better than expected for such a hyped site and the service was perhaps even better than that.. The Thai Mussels lasted seconds they were so good and the pork bun not much longer. I've no idea if the meal between lunch and dinner has an official name (dunch?) regardless I'll be eating mine here in future, if you need me don't call.



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Morito - Exmouth Market

After a fantastic early meal at Caravan we excitedly waltzed over to the spanking new Morito where the queue was no where near as bad as the urban grapevine suggests. Baclava and sherry, a beer and some biscotti made for a perfect after dinner treat. Morito looks amazing, the service is impeccable and it makes you feel like your on holiday. Promised to visit again soon but next time for a whole night. Can't wait.

Federation Coffee - Brixton Arcade

Two words : wonderful, wonderful.

Nude Coffee Tips Jars - Spitalfields

The coffee at Nude may be great every single time but I look forward to seeing which of the two tips jars is fullest. Last visit 'Boys' was almost empty and 'Girls' full to the brim. Today 'Paris' confirmed it's status as a city on down, the jar being nearly half empty with shrapnel and fluff while 'New York' was half full of gold and silver (coins) plus at least one note.

Breads etcetera - Brixton Arcade

One man bands are not known for creating beauty - normally simple rackets. Yet the intimacy of this tiny haven demands low staffing. One man bakes all the breads both sweet and sour, the cakes and the treats etc then opens the doors and smiles safe in the knowledge that his hands alone have provided for a busy days custom. This man even roasts his own coffee too; maybe he's found an extra hour in the wee small hours or maybe he's just bloody great at his job. Either way breakfast was memorable. A perfect start to a damn fine day.

Lordship Lane - The Best Highstreet in London? No.3

Lordship Lane has changed so much in the last decade and will hopefully continue to flourish in the same way. A few chains (although none would be best) and dozens of independents is the smart way to grow. The high-street is becoming what Clapham's Nappy Valley failed to achieve. Affordable luxury with a family heart.

Roullier White is quite simply a home-wares shop for men (and women too if you insist) a type of shop that's not only very hard to find but rarely worth visiting. Roullier is different - every inch is merchandised with care and wit, every inch another joy to buy. Worldwide Monocle magazine recently wrote the their ant spray the best on earth!

It may be an old school Italian deli with macho staff and dusty shelves but these same shelves hold treasures to dine for, East Dulwich Deli also bakes locally simply the best sourdough breads in London.

SMBS Organic Grocers is the type of grocers one grows to rely on. If you can't find it here you probably don't need it. Also they are only two doors down from one of London's finest affineurs - The Cheese Block.

Whilst both the Palmerston Pub and the modern chip shop The Sea Cow are owed by a local foodie entrepreneur (well he is since he moved down south) and do what they do well.

Also not to be missed are the coffees at The Blue Mountain Cafe, take aways are best though, as the walk back down through the farmers market to the lane, is a joy with caffeine in hand. Taking you to perhaps my favourite haunt of all Green and Blue, these guys have the right ideas in life. A great Off Licence with an abundance of tempting wines with the brucie bonus of a bistro next door, the perfect palce to sit down for a little light loveliness and where bottles are sold at retail prices. A perfect place to sip wines you normally couldn't afford to order. Good enough to treat.

Lordship lane is a high street best epitomised by local resident and DJ Rob Da Bank. Rob used to a legendary hedonist but now enjoys family feasts at home and organising music festivals for interested adults. The true spirit of East Dulwich.

Grown Up Fun.

Trinity Stores - Balham

For such a long standing part of London's food establishment I'm ashamed to say today was my first visit to Trinity Stores in Balham. I needn't worry, Wednesday afternoon and the place was alive with happy customers, floral clad kids and passers by. A wonderfully original selection of dry, fresh, chilled and alcoholic goodies. I bought teas and tisanes, biscuits and pies. None of which I needed and all of which were irresistible. The true heart of Balham.

The Black Lab - Clapham

It's not open yet and it's a famously difficult street to retail from but good luck to the guys at 'The Black Lab' in Clapham. I popped down to taste the mana this afternoon and it was closed for staff training. A good sign in itself!

Next time for sure.

Wilton Way Cafe - De Beauvoir Town (aka London Fields!)

When community fails and highstreets die London becomes a fractured place; still the greatest but a little harder to live in. With this in mind I suggest everybody in London visits Wilton Way Cafe today; if you can't visit just send a cheque - because what they are doing is to be applauded. 

Not only is the Wilton way cafe a cafe with intimacy at it's core and great coffee it's mandate it's also got a community radio station built into the servery. Yes the 'Wiltons' believe so much in re-invigorating the local community they've set up a station to get the community talking, listening, communicating. Such a wonderful thing. I'm once again in love.

With the already lovely Violet Cupcakes and the perfectly formed Wilton Way Cafe  this could be a street to watch. What comes next? A grocery store, a haberdashers or a butcher might be nice. Go spend some money. Invest in London's collective future. Or just chill out a little in a truely lovely cafe. Either way you'll leave feeling better.

The Espresso Room - Bloomsbury

As a born and bred Londoner who loves to wander, sip and shop the English owned Espresso Rooms makes me proud. Whilst many houses lay claim to the finest brewed coffee in town (and make no mistake this is one of them) few offer such great service. My visit today was an episode of complete care and attention.

Maybe it's the intimacy of the room (more of an exquisite cupboard really) or the knowledge that what they do is special; whatever it is it's working, service this good is rare and remembered.

Tapped and Packed - Fitzrovia

Wander up and down Rathbone Place looking for Tapped and Packed and confusion and maps will reign. On realising that No.26 is actually the place you're searching for you'll fall in love instantly.

In a world of overbranded and underwhelming experience not putting your name on the door is a sign of intimacy, of subtlety, of charm.

As yet another newcomer to the burgeoning third wave of coffee tapped and packed needed a point of difference - they went for sexed up equipment. Perfect for the machismo air of Adland. What man can resist coffee disguised as a chemistry experiment and what woman could resist the best looking barristas in town! Either will relish such crafted drinking. Many will become regulars.

Lambs Conduit Street - The Best Highstreet in London? No.1

If I had to imagine the perfect high street, my own nirvana, it would have to have everything I'd need for a perfect lazy weekend plus I few things I don't.

A florist, a bookshop and a newsagent adjacent to a greasy spoon for brunch time browsing. A pair of outstanding menswear shops, a tailor and somewhere great for lunch. A hairdresser or two and no estate agents. 

A wine bar, somewhere to drink with friends and one for drinking to love. An established funeral parlour, a dentist, a charity shop and a deli of note.

This imaginary utopia is alive and well. Welcome to Lambs Conduit Street. A secret London gem.

Kennards is a beauty of a deli and Bin Ends a real wine merchant.

All it needs is more food! Whilst Cigala serves up the finest tapas treats and Ciao Bella is the kind of old school Italian that every high street used to have (namely reliable, fun and fantastic for the money) what Lambs Conduit misses is a Butchers, a Cheese Room, or Greengrocers.

Maybe this will change when The People's Supermarket finally opens. It's been talked about for years now. First it was to be in Brixton then Islington's Upper Street then ... then ... then....

Now it looks like this concept of the future is to be realised.

What is a People's Supermarket? It's a supermarket where the staff work for free in return for cheap food. The cheap food being the finest organic, ethical and sustainable goods available.

With staffing costs being by far the highest cost in retail having no staff costs should ensure amazing prices for the local community - they in return just volunteer for a couple of hours on a very happy checkout.

It's an interesting Idea. Good Luck.

Until they open though - Lambs Conduit Street will remain the best High street in London for the man about town who reads Monocle Magazine and has no kitchen.

Towpath Cafe - Regents Canal

Since I first spoke of the Towpath only a few months back it's gone from being a local favourite to a national treasure - even featuring in last weekends financial times. Not bad going for somewhere reachable only on foot.

Does it deserve such aclaim? Of course. The food is always exactly what you fancy; on sunday last as the rain clouds gathered they served up a wonderous Paella. Just the most perfect treat for an almost summers day. Every weekend sees something different - something better than last. The only constant being the bigger crowds.

Should do well in the Observer food awards; go now before the winners plaque and hordes arrive.

Nonna's - Camden Parkway

Nonna's on Camden's Parkway has changed and changed for the better.

Sharing a kitchen with The superb York & Albany and as part of the Angela Hartnett Empire I was very excited to hear of it's opening and very disappointed on visiting .

It used to be a quite strange experience, with HP sauce bottles sharing shelves with £50 bottles of Olive Oil, above a pot of Jam. Maybe it was meant to be wacky or maybe an intuitive shopping experience - I just got confused.
A year or so later and it's as it I'd have hoped it should be.

Nonna's has now ditched much of the old stock and ramped up production of it's own produce, so the daft array of English Icon condiments (see Heinz and HP sauces) have gone and been replaced by a simple solution - Nonna's Homemade and Spicy Sauce. Gone are the huge raft of different oils and vinaigrette's displayed in any nock and cranny they could find to be replaced by a more curated and cared for selection.
It's a joy to be here. Not forgetting that the the bits that were always great still are - great cheese, great wine, far better than average pizza and my top recommendation - fantastic fantastic homemade ice cream.


Maybe Angela is as good a shopkeeper as chef after all. Her Nonna would be proud.

Lock 7 - Broadway Market

Sitting sipping coffee in a bike shop by a canal feels like an Amsterdam moment - except it's happening in London Fields. Lock 7 is the kind of small business that is obvious only to a local. Who else could spot the potential of a forgotten site on the wrong side of the bridge. A local would know it's actually part of the cycle route from Broadway Market to Columbia Road, a route that's become an East London weekend pilgrimage. Although if you ask my advice turn left before you get to Columbia Rd and head for the fun and artistic games of Vyner Street instead.

Founded by two local bike lovers following a trip to Copenhagen it's a business built on love. Love of wheels and wheely good coffee (the cafes own pun - not mine)

The guilt of being a car owner has been quickly put to bed by the esoteric service and I'm in the mood for a long stay and perhaps a little too much homemade cake. Cake that's really rather special.

I could be sometime.




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Hurwundeki - Cambridge Heath Road

My favourite Johnny Cash ditty 'Sunday morning coming down' was written for this antique shop / cafe / grocery store. Sitting opposite my fine long black and cheap eat treat is the nutty one from trainspotting, on the wall bowler hats and bad Victorian art, above me the rumble of passing trains and outside a collection of vintage fairground oddities for kids to scramble on whilst daddy gets his head together.

Whoever says Hackney is uber-urban has yet to visit - I feel like I'm in a rural crazy aunts secret parlour (although opposite there is a strip club to bring my thoughts back to the gutter where they feel at home)
Hurwundeki - The perfect start to my day. Any day.

The last and most charming point of magical little oasis - no music, so refreshing.




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Foxcroft and ginger

Next time you go to the third wave coffee institution that is flat white keep walking . Why suggest such foodie heresy ? Because a few dilapidated doors down is foxcroft and ginger and its just as special but without the anzac and adman crowds. Open for just three months this place could become the next fernandez and wells. Visit Foxcroft & Ginger now, then sit back and relax safe in the knowledge that you beat the sheep. Maybe have the lamb sandwich with a rye smile!

Window Shopping - Columbia Road

Santa Monica maying be building a reputation for the innovation of it's street food scene but where else in the world but London could you window shop for lunch. Columbia road has a small sprinkling of open windows where chefs sell wares straight from the kitchen, others trade coffee from a hallway. It's a small trend but I'm in love already. A window full of smiling & flirting customers may be the traditional way of letting passers by know what wonderful food a cafe serves but a queue on the pavement outside is surely a way forward. Columbia Road - not just for the flowers.

Towpath cafe - Hackney

Puppy-walking along the canal on the Islington / Hackney borders has often been a solitary and thankless task. Fortunately I'm often inspired by desolation, floating bicycles and windy afternoons.

Why else live in London!

Now I have somewhere to head for as a little less than ten minutes walk from my front door the wonderful and American Laurie has opened a Cafe on the Towpath, somewhere to cherish and walk to with gusto. With homemade cakes, soups and revitalising coffee it's the perfect definition of a hidden London treasure.








Facing the canal and open to the elements (but with heaters) it's a haven for dog-walkers, trendy hackney folk and (judging from my eves-dropping!) members of the anarchist publishing fraternity.

This afternoons rain never felt so good - Thank you Laurie.