Caravan - Exmouth Market

This weekend we decided to turn our phones off completely and have a secret holiday in London - living here it's easy to let things pass you by and in the end we could neither name another city we'd rather travel too 48 hours of leisurely rambling. The highlight said holiday was a long walk in the rain to Exmouth Market, as we arrived the traders packed up for the day, yet Caravan's lights shone brightly (particularly so as very few restaurants seem to be open for an early dinner or very late lunch these days) The food was far better than expected for such a hyped site and the service was perhaps even better than that.. The Thai Mussels lasted seconds they were so good and the pork bun not much longer. I've no idea if the meal between lunch and dinner has an official name (dunch?) regardless I'll be eating mine here in future, if you need me don't call.



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Morito - Exmouth Market

After a fantastic early meal at Caravan we excitedly waltzed over to the spanking new Morito where the queue was no where near as bad as the urban grapevine suggests. Baclava and sherry, a beer and some biscotti made for a perfect after dinner treat. Morito looks amazing, the service is impeccable and it makes you feel like your on holiday. Promised to visit again soon but next time for a whole night. Can't wait.

Polpo - Soho

Birthdays in London can be wonderful nights especially if surprises booked by others. This year my delicious wife didn't book anything, Polpo don't take bookings. Just rock up, drink while you queue and prepare yourself for something quite magical - a bacaro in the middle of town and in a building previously occupied by Venetain God Canaletto (and what a blessing finding this must have been for the estate agent sourced to find a perfect location!) This is now my favourite restaurant in London. Not only is the food prepared perfectly and priced simply but aussie Kevin is an incredibly loving waiter. Although he is far prettier in real life than my hasty photo!

You'll notice I blog more about experience and service than food itself but isn't that the point of eating? Great food and bad service is a route to a bad night out, yet average food and great service can create a customer for life and unforgettable evenings. Is that not after all the secret what we hanker after? Memories.
Polpo has hit the holy grail however; great food and great service.

I'll never forget. Happy birthday to me!

Sea Shell - Lisson Grove

It's a long time since I've had fish & chips for lunch but food this good can't be missed out on. It's reputation as the number one chip shop in london precedes it and the queue out the door of thirty people, on a hot summers day too, suggests excellence. Yet being a hit with tourists normally suggests a place past it's best. Sea Shell is not. Sea Shell is at the top of it's game, with batter so crisp and light I now understand the throng of excited Japanese tourists - they're not on a crappy guided tour but a pilgrimage.

Mrs Paisleys Lashings - Richmond

For a home to be both magical and infamous took some doing, but with one half of the feted marriage a Rolling Stone and the other the ethereal and still delicious Miss Jo Wood, Holmwood house is both and more. For this home to have a garden restaurant in it's midst for a few weeks with Arthur Potts Dawson in the kitchen to boot is quite simply exciting.

Every part of an evenings dining at Mrs Paisley's Lashings is joyful. From the 'Lads of Richmond' cocktail (served in suitably eco / retro jam jars) offered on arrival into the conservatory, the stunning sourced with love meal (the lobster risotto the highlight) all the way through to dancing with truly global movie stars in the subterranean in-house disco!

The highlight amongst many many highlights however was Mr John Davey. Simply one of the worlds best maitre d's. A man with such grace and genuine hospitality he'd give Elena a run for her money. He made every guest feel like an invitee at a house party; and in a room of no more than fifty diners, most of whom were nervous of camera phones, this was remarkable and appreciated.

If you manage to get a table at this so much more than just a pop-up pop-up get there on time ... a moment missed would be a moment regretted.

The Wapping Project Bookshop - Wapping

 'The Wapping Project' has always been a special place in my heart. Who could not feel inspired by a decadent three hour lunch, followed by a walk to the specially flooded rooftop to see an art installation of rowing boats! Or a best friends birthday and an exhibition of Belgian Fashion. This week a brunch to remember was followed by a show celebrating 30 years of Ally Capellino. My manbag spend may now boil over.

But what made it so memorable and urged me to write is a retail space of such enormous charm. The Wapping Project Bookshop is home to Lydia Fulton and is a true reflection of her talent for curation. The Bookshop is  seemingly one of the few places you can find a copy of the latest 'its nice that' plus a hundred other literary wonders for children, for cooks or for paper fetishists. I could have spent a fortune, and I probably will - hopefully next Thursday I'll be lucky enough to get a ticket for a reading/showing by photographer Tim Walker. Can you imagine how special it would be to hear Tim talk while sitting on the floor of a tiny greenhouse?

In the past this experimental treasure has hosted evenings with  Edna O’Brien, Iain Sinclair, Jeanette Winterson, Michael Rosen, Richard Milward, Linda Grant, Billy Childish, even film maker Mike Figgis. I also love the opening hours. Thursday (by appointment) plus friday, saturday and sunday. It's an oft cited moan of the shop keeper, how hard we work. Why not make it easier on yourself and leave the rest of the week to be creative? Why open on a monday when nobody shops anyway? Let's all follow Lydia and close a bit more often!

Whilst The Wapping Project Bookshop may all sound a bit too cool for school don't be put off. Lydia and I had a long conversation about the new East London line extension. Great Food, one-off Exhibitions, a bookshop of love and chats about the architecture of train lines. What's not to love!

Lambs Conduit Street - The Best Highstreet in London? No.1

If I had to imagine the perfect high street, my own nirvana, it would have to have everything I'd need for a perfect lazy weekend plus I few things I don't.

A florist, a bookshop and a newsagent adjacent to a greasy spoon for brunch time browsing. A pair of outstanding menswear shops, a tailor and somewhere great for lunch. A hairdresser or two and no estate agents. 

A wine bar, somewhere to drink with friends and one for drinking to love. An established funeral parlour, a dentist, a charity shop and a deli of note.

This imaginary utopia is alive and well. Welcome to Lambs Conduit Street. A secret London gem.

Kennards is a beauty of a deli and Bin Ends a real wine merchant.

All it needs is more food! Whilst Cigala serves up the finest tapas treats and Ciao Bella is the kind of old school Italian that every high street used to have (namely reliable, fun and fantastic for the money) what Lambs Conduit misses is a Butchers, a Cheese Room, or Greengrocers.

Maybe this will change when The People's Supermarket finally opens. It's been talked about for years now. First it was to be in Brixton then Islington's Upper Street then ... then ... then....

Now it looks like this concept of the future is to be realised.

What is a People's Supermarket? It's a supermarket where the staff work for free in return for cheap food. The cheap food being the finest organic, ethical and sustainable goods available.

With staffing costs being by far the highest cost in retail having no staff costs should ensure amazing prices for the local community - they in return just volunteer for a couple of hours on a very happy checkout.

It's an interesting Idea. Good Luck.

Until they open though - Lambs Conduit Street will remain the best High street in London for the man about town who reads Monocle Magazine and has no kitchen.

Towpath Cafe - Regents Canal

Since I first spoke of the Towpath only a few months back it's gone from being a local favourite to a national treasure - even featuring in last weekends financial times. Not bad going for somewhere reachable only on foot.

Does it deserve such aclaim? Of course. The food is always exactly what you fancy; on sunday last as the rain clouds gathered they served up a wonderous Paella. Just the most perfect treat for an almost summers day. Every weekend sees something different - something better than last. The only constant being the bigger crowds.

Should do well in the Observer food awards; go now before the winners plaque and hordes arrive.

West beach cafe - littlehampton

When london starts to get you down head south. Keep going till your feet get wet - this is littlehampton, home to a pair of modern marvels. While cities and resorts the world over clamoured for a slice of the Bilboa effect with starchitect eye candy Littlehampton went its own way. It hired two ambitious young architects and built two fish and chip cafes. Whilst the thomas heatherwick east beach cafe charms with its laid back air and happiness giving design the west beach is the one for me. Order fried fish of the day and chips twice, choose a crisp bottle of white, request some dainty recycled flutes then step outside onto the beach for romance sanctuary or sunsets.

(It might be best to check a compass first if you fancy the sunset bit - I've no idea where the sun sets, we left the beach by three thirty!)

Towpath cafe - Hackney

Puppy-walking along the canal on the Islington / Hackney borders has often been a solitary and thankless task. Fortunately I'm often inspired by desolation, floating bicycles and windy afternoons.

Why else live in London!

Now I have somewhere to head for as a little less than ten minutes walk from my front door the wonderful and American Laurie has opened a Cafe on the Towpath, somewhere to cherish and walk to with gusto. With homemade cakes, soups and revitalising coffee it's the perfect definition of a hidden London treasure.








Facing the canal and open to the elements (but with heaters) it's a haven for dog-walkers, trendy hackney folk and (judging from my eves-dropping!) members of the anarchist publishing fraternity.

This afternoons rain never felt so good - Thank you Laurie.

Casa da India - Lisbon

I've no idea what the Indian connection is but the back streets of Lisbon came alive when we walked into this treasure trove of meat. Full to the brim of men in suits lunching, it's the ideal introduction to a Lisbon way of life. It's where local council office workers, union officials, friendly faces and busy bodies alike go to take a two hour lunch. Firstly they have a few large glasses of wine (or more) then perfectly cooked steak and chips (with rice on the side of course - this is Portugal) followed by a very very large whisky. Presumably they then go back to the office and sleep through the afternoon. Wasn't the world a better place when people didn't eat at the desk? When drinking in the afternoon was encouraged? When I wasn't even born.

The photo on the right is just a sexy little sign I fell for. An incredible example of stone-masonry. Hopefully guns are no longer on sale.

Bodegon Lagunetas - Las Palma, Gran Canaria.

When faced with only a few hours in a new town, what do you do? Where do you eat?

The guide books for Gran Canaria were sketchy at best and recommendations far and few.

I like to just wander. We found a little backstreet place that seemed to be buzzing and later, on one of the main drags, we found a busy little place.  We choose the back street one - it seemed more authentic. After queueing to be seated we were walked through endless corridors of contented diners until we came to our table. My wife smiled her knowing smile. The two favoured places were one and the same. Both our choices were spot on! The food was simple but fresh, tasty and perfectly cooked. A joy to find and a joy to dine.

Lantana - Fitzrovia

Lantana is the sort of place that will always win awards, luckily it's not the sort of place that treats it's customers differently from the way it treats it's panelists.

I've managed places in the past where the whole place goes crazy when a critic walks in, everything is cooked specially; I've tried to never agree with this practice. All customers should get the same top notch service.

Timeout has awarded Lantana the best Cafe in London - I completely agree. The bacon & egg sandwich is like none you've ever tasted before; sourdough bread gently toasted, just enough of a light aioli sauce on top and a few other surprises that only added to the experience. The coffee is a wonder too.

If this is the norm for Cafes in Australia I may just swallow my sporting pride and jump on a flight.

The English have a lot to learn!

The Goods Shed - Canterbury, Kent

Revisiting somewhere that you've loved before is always a tricky thing. The first time I found The Goods Shed I was blown away. On my second visit I was even more impressed!

Outside, on this particular Saturday, they were holding a 'car-boot market'. This is a stunning and simple idea, all the local allotment folk and small holders alike are invited to sell any extra crops they may have yielded. At the far end of the car park was a man with a car-boot full of carrots, closer to the front door a women selling lots of beetroot, in between every hue and type of vegetable one could ever attempt to grow.

Such a wonderful idea - if a little illegal! It is forbidden in England to sell anything from an allotment, the idea being to keep the allotments free of commercial influences. Lets ignore that, as they say 'the law is an ass'.

Once inside you'll find an Aladdin's cave of a store. About a dozen independent farmers, grocers and Patrick the traiteur have come together under one beautiful roof to provide you with Kent's finest wares. You truly could complete a weekly shop here, they even have a man selling ethical toilet roll!

As if this wasn't enough the far wall is taken up by a restaurant where the chefs create delights for the stomach direct from the stalls alongside. Jay Rayner adored this place, he called it 'Gastro-Porn', I agree, although I generally prefer to eat in company and with the lights on.

The food is great and Enzo's bread, leavened within the building, is even better.

The Goods Shed is perfectly executed and a tribute to my home county. I've always been proud to be a man of Kent and now I've another gem to recommend.

I drove home a happy man.

De kas - Amsterdam

Probably the most memorable meal of the last five years.
Deciding to rent bicycles for the weekend was an inspired idea. Deciding to Cycle all the way to De Kas was a romantic idea. Deciding to not take umbrellas and get stranded, during Amsterdams biggest hail strom of the last 12 months was idiotic. The night was still amazing.