Monday 31 May 2010

The Wapping Project Bookshop - Wapping


 'The Wapping Project' has always been a special place in my heart. Who could not feel inspired by a decadent three hour lunch, followed by a walk to the specially flooded rooftop to see an art installation of rowing boats! Or a best friends birthday and an exhibition of Belgian Fashion. This week a brunch to remember was followed by a show celebrating 30 years of Ally Capellino. My manbag spend may now boil over.
But what made it so memorable and urged me to write is a retail space of such enormous charm. The Wapping Project Bookshop is home to Lydia Fulton and is a true reflection of her talent for curation. The Bookshop is  seemingly one of the few places you can find a copy of the latest 'its nice that' plus a hundred other literary wonders for children, for cooks or for paper fetishists. I could have spent a fortune, and I probably will - hopefully next Thursday I'll be lucky enough to get a ticket for a reading/showing by photographer Tim Walker. Can you imagine how special it would be to hear Tim talk while sitting on the floor of a tiny greenhouse?
In the past this experimental treasure has hosted evenings with  Edna O’Brien, Iain Sinclair, Jeanette Winterson, Michael Rosen, Richard Milward, Linda Grant, Billy Childish, even film maker Mike Figgis. I also love the opening hours. Thursday (by appointment) plus friday, saturday and sunday. It's an oft cited moan of the shop keeper, how hard we work. Why not make it easier on yourself and leave the rest of the week to be creative? Why open on a monday when nobody shops anyway? Let's all follow Lydia and close a bit more often!

Whilst The Wapping Project Bookshop may all sound a bit too cool for school don't be put off. Lydia and I had a long conversation about the new East London line extension. Great Food, one-off Exhibitions, a bookshop of love and chats about the architecture of train lines. What's not to love!


Wednesday 26 May 2010

The Espresso Room - Bloomsbury

As a born and bred Londoner who loves to wander, sip and shop the English owned Espresso Rooms makes me proud. Whilst many houses lay claim to the finest brewed coffee in town (and make no mistake this is one of them) few offer such great service. My visit today was an episode of complete care and attention.

Maybe it's the intimacy of the room (more of an exquisite cupboard really) or the knowledge that what they do is special; whatever it is it's working, service this good is rare and remembered.

Tapped and Packed - Fitzrovia

Wander up and down Rathbone Place looking for Tapped and Packed and confusion and maps will reign. On realising that No.26 is actually the place you're searching for you'll fall in love instantly.

In a world of overbranded and underwhelming experience not putting your name on the door is a sign of intimacy, of subtlety, of charm.

As yet another newcomer to the burgeoning third wave of coffee tapped and packed needed a point of difference - they went for sexed up equipment. Perfect for the machismo air of Adland. What man can resist coffee disguised as a chemistry experiment and what woman could resist the best looking barristas in town! Either will relish such crafted drinking. Many will become regulars.

Saturday 22 May 2010

Kevin Cyr - Camper Bike


Imagine this like a mini 'moby' from a vintage episode of Brookside; full of fine provisions and pulling up in your street unannounced. With an exquisilty curated selection of cheese and humble wine, a pot of homemade hummous or two, a dozen sunday newspapers and magazines; a four wheeled corner shop in the middle of your street, maybe with a remixed ice cream van serenade too!

At the moment it's a piece of conceptual artwork by Kevin Cyr. I think it should be retail space for the modern streetscape.
Please somebody do it!

Preferably in Islington near me.

Lambs Conduit Street - The Best Highstreet in London? No.1



If I had to imagine the perfect high street, my own nirvana, it would have to have everything I'd need for a perfect lazy weekend plus I few things I don't.

A florist, a bookshop and a newsagent adjacent to a greasy spoon for brunch time browsing. A pair of outstanding menswear shops, a tailor and somewhere great for lunch. A hairdresser or two and no estate agents. 

A wine bar, somewhere to drink with friends and one for drinking to love. An established funeral parlour, a dentist, a charity shop and a deli of note.









This imaginary utopia is alive and well. Welcome to Lambs Conduit Street. A secret London gem.
Kennards is a beauty of a deli and Bin Ends a real wine merchant.







All it needs is more food! Whilst Cigala serves up the finest tapas treats and Ciao Bella is the kind of old school Italian that every high street used to have (namely reliable, fun and fantastic for the money) what Lambs Conduit misses is a Butchers, a Cheese Room, or Greengrocers.

Maybe this will change when The People's Supermarket finally opens. It's been talked about for years now. First it was to be in Brixton then Islington's Upper Street then ... then ... then....

Now it looks like this concept of the future is to be realised.

What is a People's Supermarket? It's a supermarket where the staff work for free in return for cheap food. The cheap food being the finest organic, ethical and sustainable goods available.

With staffing costs being by far the highest cost in retail having no staff costs should ensure amazing prices for the local community - they in return just volunteer for a couple of hours on a very happy checkout.

It's an interesting Idea. Good Luck.

Until they open though - Lambs Conduit Street will remain the best High street in London for the man about town who reads Monocle Magazine and has no kitchen.

Tuesday 18 May 2010

Towpath Cafe - Regents Canal


Since I first spoke of the Towpath only a few months back it's gone from being a local favourite to a national treasure - even featuring in last weekends financial times. Not bad going for somewhere reachable only on foot.

Does it deserve such aclaim? Of course. The food is always exactly what you fancy; on sunday last as the rain clouds gathered they served up a wonderous Paella. Just the most perfect treat for an almost summers day. Every weekend sees something different - something better than last. The only constant being the bigger crowds.

Should do well in the Observer food awards; go now before the winners plaque and hordes arrive.

Thursday 13 May 2010

The Camden Coffee Shop - Delancey Street Conservation Area

The Camden Coffee Shop is the kind of shop that makes me feel guilty for never having visited before. Driven past - yes. Told others to visit - yes. Walked past when drunk and thought about popping in but halfway through a cigarette so didn't - yes. Known that this is exactly the sort of business specialist that will one day disappear from our high street and we will regret - yes. Visited - Sorry No.


Today was the day and it was worth the wait. On the left of the shop is a 75 year old roasting wheel, on the right worldwide bags of green coffee beans. In the heart of this tiny wonder is George. George offers words of comic wisdom, great proprietorial service and a wealth of knowledge.  Camden Coffee may not have the panache of Monmouth or the swagger of Square Mile but I'd doubt any of the upstarts know as much as George, or are quit as hospitable to stupid questions.
My tote now smells of freshly ground Santos Light and my heart is a little purer for this real store experience.

The Camden Coffee Shop, 11 Delancey Street, NW1. Call 020 7387 4080. (not to be confused with 'The Camden Coffee House' only yards away; which looks very nice and should appeal to Phoebe, Joey, Chandler et al)




Ferreira Delicatesan & Portuguese Shop - Camden

Don't be put of by the off putting exterior - the charm of Ferreira is it's aged looks. Inside it's even more of a retro gem. The deli counter has a seventies supermarket style red and white canopy and if your lucky you'll find a bottle of Blue Nun. With newspapers, sausages rolls, fresh bread and tinned food by the yard this is an old school Sunday morning heaven.

They also sell the cheapest pastel de nata in London at 70p each. Which is rather good seeing as just about every deli in London buys them from the same bakery on the south side of the Thames.

On the subject of Pastel I would love to see someone somewhere in London give them the love they receive at home. Where are the sexy boxes and the cinnamon dust?  The Chocolate Icing? The warm just from the Oven smell?



Nonna's - Camden Parkway


Nonna's on Camden's Parkway has changed and changed for the better.

Sharing a kitchen with The superb York & Albany and as part of the Angela Hartnett Empire I was very excited to hear of it's opening and very disappointed on visiting .

It used to be a quite strange experience, with HP sauce bottles sharing shelves with £50 bottles of Olive Oil, above a pot of Jam. Maybe it was meant to be wacky or maybe an intuitive shopping experience - I just got confused.
A year or so later and it's as it I'd have hoped it should be.

Nonna's has now ditched much of the old stock and ramped up production of it's own produce, so the daft array of English Icon condiments (see Heinz and HP sauces) have gone and been replaced by a simple solution - Nonna's Homemade and Spicy Sauce. Gone are the huge raft of different oils and vinaigrette's displayed in any nock and cranny they could find to be replaced by a more curated and cared for selection.
It's a joy to be here. Not forgetting that the the bits that were always great still are - great cheese, great wine, far better than average pizza and my top recommendation - fantastic fantastic homemade ice cream.


Maybe Angela is as good a shopkeeper as chef after all. Her Nonna would be proud.

Sunday 9 May 2010

The Last Tuesday Society - Cambridge Heath




In an area of London famed for free parties and exceptional galleries (see first thursday for both - and yes I do see the witty irony in saying this) it felt odd to have to pay to visit a 'gallery of oddities' where everything was actually for sale. Don't hesitate the pound entry is worth its hundred pennies.

'The Last Tuesday Society' has a charm and dirty laugh that sets it up as it as somewhere to marvel. Two dark rooms are full to the brim of exhibits from raccoon penis bones, Lesbian S & M Safety Manuals and enough stuffed animals to quieten the loudest child it's a must see for the insane, curious and curiouser.

Easily the second best museum in Cambridge Heath.


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Lock 7 - Broadway Market



Sitting sipping coffee in a bike shop by a canal feels like an Amsterdam moment - except it's happening in London Fields. Lock 7 is the kind of small business that is obvious only to a local. Who else could spot the potential of a forgotten site on the wrong side of the bridge. A local would know it's actually part of the cycle route from Broadway Market to Columbia Road, a route that's become an East London weekend pilgrimage. Although if you ask my advice turn left before you get to Columbia Rd and head for the fun and artistic games of Vyner Street instead.

Founded by two local bike lovers following a trip to Copenhagen it's a business built on love. Love of wheels and wheely good coffee (the cafes own pun - not mine)

The guilt of being a car owner has been quickly put to bed by the esoteric service and I'm in the mood for a long stay and perhaps a little too much homemade cake. Cake that's really rather special.

I could be sometime.




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Saturday 8 May 2010

Hurwundeki - Cambridge Heath Road



My favourite Johnny Cash ditty 'Sunday morning coming down' was written for this antique shop / cafe / grocery store. Sitting opposite my fine long black and cheap eat treat is the nutty one from trainspotting, on the wall bowler hats and bad Victorian art, above me the rumble of passing trains and outside a collection of vintage fairground oddities for kids to scramble on whilst daddy gets his head together.

Whoever says Hackney is uber-urban has yet to visit - I feel like I'm in a rural crazy aunts secret parlour (although opposite there is a strip club to bring my thoughts back to the gutter where they feel at home)
Hurwundeki - The perfect start to my day. Any day.

The last and most charming point of magical little oasis - no music, so refreshing.




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Tuesday 4 May 2010

The Food Programme Interviews Ben @ E5 Food















Ben Mckinnon who featured a while ago on The
London Review of Shopping is going from strength to strength. Pour a glass of something lovely, break bread and listen to his interview with Sheila Dillon on BBC Radio 4s 'The Food Programme'. The School of Artisan Food looks like an amazing place; maybe we'll meet in the kitchen someday!

Alternatively ignore the radio and simply order some! He delivers every Saturday morning to households in and around E5.

Monday 3 May 2010

A love letter for you - Philadelphia vs Violet Cupcakes - Hackney


It's a long way from London and seems a little far fetched that Boris would ever sanction it but Steve Powers has taken street art and used it to rejuvenate an unloved shopping street into my next, potential,Valentines Day destination. He has taken art and given a community a sense of pride again, a sense of love.

With the title 'a love letter to you' this project called for a big canvas. The biggest canvas available - the view from the window of a downtown train. As the train passes above the city a series of 50 murals roll before the eye unveiling a love story and brightening days.
As one of the stars of 'Beatiful Losers' - (a film I loved a few years back at the LFF about street art ) Steve Powers first helped to put into perspective for me London's colloquial  love of Banksy.  Sometimes London is not the centre of the story. The film also highlighted the true diversity of street art. Steve Powers / Mike Mills / Margaret Kilgallen / Ed Templeton have little in common but friendship.

The connection to food shops in London?

This project reminded me of Violet in Hackney - a stunning little cupcake shop with great food, inspired signage and service that will hopefully improve.  I've now 50 happier loved ones who adored the skill involved and sugar rush that the wonderful little cupcakes bring. I'd recommend them to all.

Saturday 1 May 2010

Chegworth Farm Shop - Kensington Church Street

Chegworth Valley Juices are a familiar sight at Londons Farmers Markets, in fact family man & farmer David insists they were present on the opening day of every farmers market they frequent. It is no surprise then to find them at the forefront of a new move in the business of farming – urban farm shops.

The Chegworth shop is at the nicer end of Kensington Church Street and with Clarke’s as a near neighbour it’s a foodie haven. In a charming nod to chegworth’s roots, on Market days the back doors of the shop are flung open and the shop becomes a gateway to the Farmers and their wares.

Manager & Farmers’ Daughter Charlotte clearly has a talent for shop keeping, after needing to top-up her shopping at local convenience stores, Charlotte realised that Chegworth should stock a range of non market goods; think pulses, condiments & flour and you’ll get the idea of her broad range. An ethical one-stop shop!


The 17 different organic juices are the hero products of the store but customers are delighted to find farm made cakes, crumbles & soups, locally baked ‘flourish’ bread and dozens of wonderful and largely Kentish products. Taywell Ice Cream, Ripple Farm Salad, Hurdlebrook cream, plus eggs and chickens from Mayfield Farm are just a few of the goodies on offer. I bought honey from Chart Sutton and it’s nearly all gone already – It’s that good!

The shop also delivers daily to local postcodes and supplies many local business and offices. After your shopping (they are often open till 8pm – call the shop for details 020 7229 3016) why not visit the Notting hill arts club? All the cocktails are created with Chegworth Fruit and Veg. Green & Local & Tipsy – A perfect combination.